The Village & My Childhood
I am born in the laps of mountains at the altitude of 3790m, where I can see the white lofted mountains all in my eyes from the small wooden window of my house there. This ‘Sherpa tribal’ village is beautiful and very panoramic, its marvelous indeed with the main crops of potato. Born on 25-07-1969 as fourth child, I was raised by my father, Nima Tsering Sherpa and Mother Tsering Doma Sherpa along with other three sons and two daughters, so altogether we were eight members big family. The name Serap Jangbu is given so uniquely to me.
Life Of US Rolling
Since all Sherpas working in Mountaineering and Trekking, my father too followed the same profession of mountaineering and summer season is for us the farming, also some other trade but the life is quite hard and struggling at that time. By age of nine, I started my Schooling at Khumjung Secondary School, which is first School in Solukhumbu established by Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust and by that time my elder brother already working in trekking.
Catastrophe To Us And My struggle Begins
Time is going smooth but a great shock to our family, since when I am 12, my elder brother died. This shocking news made us so much trouble in family as well as economic crisis to us and the only income from father have to survive all the members of family. This situation made us harsh in life and my elder sister worked too as porter having Yaks and Jyopkyok (Hybrid Of Yak), because of poverty and the traditional thinking of girls not going school made my sisters lacking education. This poverty lade off me from my schooling and I have to struggle my own for family since sister also got married. We have cattle so we need to migrate in season wise in summer and winter to a place named ‘Phunki Thanga’, 1-1/2 hours of walk from my village. that place is still holding so many memorable moments of my childhood. I used to go school from this place mostly Summer and winter season. It's very hard to walk daily school. Some time I use to stay with my younger brothers at Khumjung. Now I need to support my family since only one sister is to look after the family.
Quitting School and Started Climbing
I quit my schooling from six class ( grade ) and use to follow my sister as cow boy for the yak as a Porter for Trekking and Expedition group. Some time former and I worked for Tengbuche Hydro power Electric project almost 7-8 months. Then few years later. It was the 1989 first time I got an opportunity to climb ‘Mera Peak’ (6643m) with Japanese Team. It was first step of my life as a supporter climber. I made it and this successful summit inspired me to make foundation for my mountaineering career. Later I climbed ‘Island Peak’ and also worked as cook with Japanese team for the ‘Kusum Kangkaru Peak’.
Journey to Kathmandu for searching Job
By December 1989, most of villager use to go Kathmandu to search Trekking job. I also went to Kathmandu from ‘Jiri’, since not having enough money I need to catch the bus instead of plane at ‘Lukla’. Only I have is Rupee 2100 and we are 6-7 Sherpas from Khumjung. we all collected Rs. 500 each and we got Kathmandu and for me my sister already staying in Kathmandu after marriage made me a easy and better shelter.
After reaching Kathmandu, the time kept on tickling. A day came and I got a trek to ‘Panchashi’ at ‘Pokhara’ for four days. We went two days before the trek to make arrangement at ‘Pokhara’ and after when our guests arrived we went to airport and picked them up and headed as schedule. For the trekking leader gave us load of 35kg each and including our stuff its already 40-45kg. It was too hard trek but for the first trek after getting in Kathmandu, it was very pleasure and immense moment of my life. Again after I got another trek for ‘Shaklung’ for four days. but, I was sick after second day and I was returned back to Kathmandu from Kaliskathan. its really so horrible to crossing from such a dark and thick forest alone. Also, I don't know well Pokhara. It was my first time Pokhara too. anyway the circle of time circling.
Good Days Started
Next step of my life, working with STC trekking company belong Doug Scott. For the first two season I worked as a helper. We went to Dolpo area as Reakhi, then after the trek season they choosed me as second guide and Doug Scoot was with us. That was successful trek and this lead me to become guide though was small group for first time. Then send me some time Trekking with peak climbing group. It getting me more Experience about climbing mountains.
My First 8000m. Everest Expedition
In 1993, I got an opportunity to climb Everest with British 40 Everest expedition team. This expedition taught me many lessons of Clinbing. After getting at Base Camp after 7/8 days and carrying equipment by 2/3 times. When I tried carrying equipments from camp 2 to Camp 4 South Col., I felt little difficulty, kind of vomiting and dizziness since was the first time at 8000m. my friend took care of me and I returned back camp II. After getting better again I started carrying equipment for 4/5 times. We stayed at Base Camp and sometime Camp 2.
At last, our first team attempt include me and other one sherpa without oxygen. We started from BC to Camp-II, South col next day to try summit. but, the weather again leave our luck at South Col. Then we two Sherpa return back to C-2. Second team and our first team members also not able to head from South Col. we all came back to BC for rest. Finally summit push leader decide only one woman member Rebacca Stephen and three climbing Sherpa including me, We been through camp 1.2.3 and to South Col, from South Col I carried three bottles of large oxygen and other stuffs. Those oxygen, one for member and one for us to use during climbing. Its my bad luck that I am getting weak. I was carrying too much. When We are above 8200miter, on the I got strong cough and feel not well. Two of Our sherpa climbers friend are a head . I can see the only headlamp light. Then I decided my self to descend down. If I keep continue. We will not make summit. I told her I'm feeling not well. you go with them to continue summit. I will wait South col. I called our sherpa to come down. Then I gave her extra bottle O2, water and other necessary things from my pack. Then I return down my self alone to camp. My friend and member continued to climb up and they summit successfully. She became first British Women summit to Mt. Everest. I was waiting for them with hot soup and tea in SC. In evening about 4/5 o'clock they came back to camp. Two of Sherpas had soup and tea. they continue descend down to camp 2. Our member tired so we two stopped in SC. next day There was no body in SC and weather was very windy. When we started from SC, its quite heard to descend. However, we descend camp III. my foot is get very cold. Then we stopped little time in Tent. Made hot soup and I warmed my foot. She gave me dry shocks and after we started down Camp II. All members were waiting at Camp II. After lunch we back to BC. There was very nice beautiful worm welcoming by our team and others expedition team. Then Some members of Expedition and Rebecca flew by helicopter from BC to Kathmandu and some members and staffs trek back to Lukla.
Though I was not happy internally since I was not at the summit. I continued climb Trekking Peaks to learned more technical side of mountaineering. By 1998 I climbed 48-50 times peaks.
Seven years Later start my Climbing Career
Then I start to climbing of high Mountain. Spring 1999 I got opportunity to lead and climbed ‘Kanchanjunga’ 8586 meter third highest peaks in the world with Mr. Park Young Seok, Korean team . We was the only one expedition team from south side. We drive via road Kathmandu to Taplejung. Then trek to Yambuding, Cheram and by Khangjung glacier to Kanchanjung Bass camp. Few days setup camp, rest and made Lama Puja ceremony Pray Protect teams, safety with successful climb. Then fixed route to C-I, C-II and deposited necessary equipment and suppliers there and return to BC for summit rest. We came rest at Cheram too few days and then return to BC. We got new weather report and we climbed up C-I,II and C-III last camp with 4 Sherpa climbers and 2 members. Then 2 return to C-II waiting for us and we stay there few hours rest. Then around 9 pm I made hot drink and food. Then we started around 12 midnight for summit push four of us included me. One of member return on the way and we continue with manrope. We not put fixed line. We have not enough time to fix rope. It's was very deep soft snow difficult to open trail up. However, we reached Chimney House below Top. It was quite late and my client Mr. Park O2 is finished and my cousin Brother climbing Sherpa who is with us. He have also very low pressure O2 left. I have only one bottle which is I'm using. So, my bottle have more then half oxygen. I use very low pressure. I was front to leading route and my client was between. I look back to them and I saw my client calling me by hand and asking oxygen. I have no choice. We don't have extra bottle. I need to save client and make expedition success. Then I gave my O2 and continue lead route. Then we reached 3:27 pm on the Top of Kanchungjunga 8586m main peak. we took picture and pray peace in World shortly and return down. But, we are already very late before Khangjung pass we got dark. Then we keep continue down at night. We lost route. The trail we open on the way up cover by snow and the weather was cloudy. We try to reach camp.but, until 11:30 pm we couldn't get camp. Then I decide to stay bibag above 8200m. I deck Ice for three person sit down and made ice screw anger for safety. Then clips karabiner safety to ice screw. Then next morning 5:00 am I weak up and saw we are just stopped over blue ice. If we descend last night from that point. There is no way to survival. It's very steep. Then I saw the tent right side down. We back tent and made hot drink and I worm up Radio betray. Last evening our radio is death frosting Betray. Then we contact C-II sherpa to come pick up C-III. Our client get snow blank and descend by three sherpa. Then we continue down, member and sherpa are stopped C-I and I came down BC. Next day all joined BC and expedition is successfully over. It's my first time 8000m. Summit and this success made me inspired to climb other high mountains.
It all learning process for my life, since we are in life learning process. Same year in September 26 , I summit ‘Shisapangma’ 8013m. High peak with Mr. Park. Sishapangma four clients and my self. Then we return BC and by road to Kathmandu. after few days rest. we went by helicopter to ‘Makalu’ BC. our main expedition team members and Sherpa climbers are already there setting the route and camp. In the evening we called them to return back all Sherpas to BC from Camp-I. We rest two days at BC. Next day we went to C-I. From camp 1 we went to make route but above 7100m. Makalu La. one of my cousin died accidentally. We brought the body C-I and returned back to BC. The death body of my cousin is brought down ‘Yangla’ village. We did ritual ceremony there and returned to BC. Next day we went to check C-I but every thing blown up by avalanche. Therefor, we closed expedition and return back Tumlingtar flew back Kathmandu.
Climbing of Great Mountains Begin
2000 Spring I went with Indian Tibet Border Police ( ITBP ) team to Kanchanjunga expedition as a Sirdar. ( expedition guide ) To make this successful I supported my team up 8200m. Then after summit we returned back. Our expedition was successfully over. Then we return Kathmandu by Helicopter .
Same time I met S.Korean popular climber Mr. Om Hing Gil at Kanchanjunga. His climbing Guide Dawa Tamang passed near C-III, after then I support and help for his expedition until summit. Then he ask me to climbe Mt. K2 summer season in Pakistan. He want four Sherpa climbers included me. Then he confirmed for K2 expedition and he came Kathmandu before we leave Pakistan. Then he return Korea . Few days after we flew to Islamabad by Karachi and all team members joined Islamabad. Then drive to skardu. Two days prepared final shopping and drive to Askole and trek to BC by Baldoro glacier. It took 10-12 days to reached BC. We made Puja ( Ceremony ) at BC for protect, safety with successful expedition. We setup camp C-I,II,III as unseal and deposit equipment then return BC for summit rest. Then we all Sherpa team left BC for setup last camp and also take all necessary equipment and work climbed continue 14th days in mountain included summit. We are seven members included me and six Korean successfully summit on July 31st 2000 Mt. K2 ( Chogo Ri ) 8611 miter 2nd world highest Mountain and most difficult and dangerous peak in the World. Then we return BC and our Members are flew by helicopter from Kongodia and we Sherpa Members trek down with Porter . Then we met members at Islamabad and debriefing at Pakistan Tourism Mountaineering department. Then we return back to Nepal.
In same year Autumn, after return from K2 . Few weeks rest Kathmandu. Then again with Mr. Park ‘Sishapangma’ 8027 meter South West Face expedition. This route is very technical and very danger by Avalanche and rock falling. One time Avalanche almost kill me and my younger brother below camp one during fixing rope. Sishapangma S/W face Camp-I is Snow ridge. We have to cut snow and deck for tent ground. we fixed rope C-2/3. we have to make Ice cap and bibag C-II and C-III last camp. This taught me new experience in every Mountains. We made summit of Sishapangma 8027m. High peak on October 02-2000 with four Korean and my Self that day and second team summit day later. Then we return to BC, Nyalam, Zangmu and Kathmandu. All safe and two of second team young member got frostbite during return from summit.
In Spring 2001, with Mr.Park team for Lhotse expedition. We are the last expedition team to reached BC that season. After Puja Ceremony at BC we went through khumbu icefall C-1,C-2,C-3. We attempted from camp 3 and we summit April 29-2001 around 4:00 pm on the Top of Lhotse 8516m high. We climbed alpine style no fixed rope line from C-III direct to summit by Lhotse pillar. it's quite danger to climb without fixed route. But, we was very lucky and back safely mid night to camp 3. One of member bibag on the way to down and came back C-III next morning. He had little frostbite. we reached at camp -III midnight. Around 2 O'clock we heard famous climber Babu Chiri is died in Camp-2, by walky- talkey. Because, all of communication in BC is closed mid night, our communication were open during our Summit and hole night BC, C-2 and up that day. That way the team of Babu Chiri want is to give massage to BC by our Walky-Talky in BC. We passed the massage to BC. It was very sad news for us all mountaineering communities lost one top climber. Next day we return C-2 and packed our equipments. On the way down from C-II. We also help and support rescue Babu Tsering body to bring BC. This time we took less then a month from to Kathmandu around trip.
Two weeks later same expedition team plan to go Pakistan. They return back to Korea and In June they flew to Pakistan and one of my friend Pasang Tsering Sherpa and my Self we flew to Islamabad for climb K2 to finish Mr. Park Last of 14th peak 8000meter. As normal route Islamabad/Skardu/Askole. Trek to Jola, Payu, Baldoro glacier , Kangodiaya and K2 BC. There was few expedition team already BC. They open route until C-I, from C-I to Summit Pasang and my self fixed rope and open trail. Then we summit July 22nd 2001 with five Korean and two Sherpa 7 members from our team and some other expedition team members John Christop Lafaiya, Hansh Kamalanter, Pepe. We all reached same day. but on the way back one of our member who not reach Top. We met him below Bottle Neck and descending down together and. After the Bottle neck that members is slipped on snow and we not found his dead body. We lost one our strong young member. It was very sad moment. We returned sadly to Islamabad. Then we had debriefing at Pakistan tourism department of mountaineering. they announce press release in the first person to summit Mt. K2 within 12th months and second person to summit twice in the world. They gave me Certificate. Pakistan media gave the news about us, indeed was happy. We all Nepali return back to Nepal.
Returned from expedition I have 3/4 weeks rest with family and preparation for next expedition Cho-OyuI with European team. This time my clients are mix country International teams. We Drive by road Kathmandu to kodari Nepal China Tibet border over night Zangmu. Next day Two night Nyalam and Thingri and China Bass camp. CBC we 2-3 night for rest acclimatization and prepare for Yak Porter. Then we trek two days to reached ABC. Few days acclimatization, camp setup and Puja ceremony and climb up C-I,II setup, return ABC for summit rest. Then we climb up summit push. I have 3 clients with my self from camp- III last camp. We start from last camp around 1:00 Am midnight. Two of clients return on the way up below shoulder. Then one of client and my self continue to make expedition successful. finally reached Top of the Cho-Oyu 8201miter high peak on September 26-2001. We enjoyed few moment nature view , panorama pictures on summit. We descend down and on the way we met our client. Then we brought him together camp packed and descend. One of our member got frostbite. It's very difficult to take care in high Himalayans. Anyway, our expedition is over with safely return ABC. Our team was individual commercial join international expedition. So, members and My self return to Kathmandu and the others team members and ABC Nepali staff still there for summit push. This year I summited three 8000miter peaks included Cho-Oyu.
2002, spring I lead Korean Jeju-Do Annapurna I expedition. We drive by road Kathamndu to Beni 8-9 hours stop over night. Next day we trek to Tato pani, Lete, Lete is the last village of Annapurna-I north side route. We hired some more local Porter from there and trek to Bedha Kharka. there is no water we need to carry from one the way up or need to go more then hours way to get water. After this camp below the pass we have to fixed rope about four hundred miter. If there is snow quite difficult and steep trail. The other side pass we walk through stretch lift side by grassy hill trail and we got camp side. There is water and we have to put rope line for get water and trek to next day. There was lots snow. The trail goes all the way down river side overnight camp below big rock cap. Then we reached Bass camp.
I heart and read some book about this Mountain and mostly said very dangerous about Avalanche, yes, it's Very danger not only Avalanche. It's danger Hidden Kharapass. We were hit by Ice sarac (Ice Fall ). When we was there that time we are only one team. So, one of our climber Tamang said route is go by Ice fall and fixed rope line about 600 meters. We climbing wrong way and hit twice falling ice. but luckily only normal accident happened in our group but it did not affect our main climbing team. Then later India Army and others one commercial team came. they said normally route is going by rock left side not by Ice fall. Then we open trail together left side. It's much safer and easy then climb Ice fall, we removed most rope from the Ice fall. continue climb and fixing route together with others team. We setup camp-II and made deposit in Tent and return BC for summit rest. Then India Army team left one day early for summit push. But, they felt on May 4rd due to difficulty route condition and turned back. That day we reached last camp for summit push. We met the Indian team at last camp. We took few hours rest and prepared hot drink, food. Then we start for summit around 2 o'clock. During night weather was very good. Mr. Oh Hee Jung , Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa and my self reached Top of Annapurna-I 8091m. High peak on May-05-2002 at 9:45 am. We take some picture on the top and descended down. It's quite danger to descending by rocky part of culler. we return camp side and met other team who return during night climbing time. Then I made hot soup for all, closed tent and descend down C-I, next day returned to BC. we flew by Helicopter BC to Pokhara and by road Kathmandu.
2002 Autumn Everest-Lhotse Expedition with S.Korean Chung-Num team. Our expedition Leader was Mr. Lee Se Jung. As well prepared all equipment, climbing gear with necessary material in Kathmandu. Then we flew to Lukla trek to Phakdin, Namche two night rest for acclimatization for clients and preparation Yak Porter from Namche to Bass camp. Trek to BC five days and setup camp and acclimatize rest with Lama Puja ( Ceremony ) of mountain God pray for safety and success expedition teams. Then we climbed up to BC. Camp-I,II setup and deposit. Then we put Tent at C-III and deposit South Col all necessary gear, food and Oxygen for summit. Then return to BC for summit rest. During this period we took few time clients to acclimatize up to C-III. Then we left BC for summit push C-I,II,III and South Col. Little rest last camp ready for summit attempt Everest and start around 10:30 PM. But, all teams have to return back down due to bad snow conditions and weather. we couldn’t scale Everest but we continue descend and climb to Lhotse last camp. Few hours rest in tent with five members included three Sherpa guide. We start around 12:30 midnight from last camp and we reached on the Top Of Mt. Lhotse 8516miter high peak on May-10-2002. After some picture and enjoyed view we descended down to camp. we summit successfully the Lhotse main peak and back to BC. We closed all camp on the way back. Then Trek down to Lukla and flew to Kathmandu. The expedition is over with safe and successfully.
2003 Spring I went climb with 50th Everest Golden Jubilee Expedition with French team. That time I didn't summit, due to weather and also stuck with the problems of team members one of member got altitude blank midnight. He couldn't see clearly then we descend. Again on the way down our some members was front descending . when I reached rock belt one of my Sherpa friend from different team told me one of my client slipped down from near the rope point C-III and drop inside Kharapass just 100miter down right side of camp-III. Then I descended down to C-III very quick and call my client . I heart his voice from Kharapass and I told him don't move stay there I'm coming. Then I open 200meter rope fixed with strong snow bar point near Tent. When I shaw him in the Kharapass. His was luckily stopped over the small ice. rescue him out. He got many fracture and continue rescue him C-II.
Then next day some Sherpa climbers and members descended BC with Injured members and continue plan summit push with second team next day. We start morning from C-II to South Col three sherpa including me. Second team members are climbs up from C-III to SC. when we reached just below Kharampon point. One of our member descending from C-III with snowboard and he is fall down. He is lucky not drop in Kharapass. The speed falling down cross over Kharapass and stopped near us. He can not stand and got some fracture. Then I have no choice to go continue summit. I have to save him and bring down. Then I send two of my Sherpa friends continue up and I give up my summit and rescue the injured client down. On the way I contact C-II team members to come to help. Then we rescue him to BC send them Kathmandu by Helicopter rescued. From our team members included Sherpa climbers fourteen people successful summit.
Our expedition is the biggest team in BC and this season 50 clients, 25 climbing Sherpa and cook staff included 97 people in one team. Then some flew by helicopter from BC and some of members and all the staff trek down to Lukla with equipment. All was good but, we lost one of our camera team member. He was very strong, friendly and good friendship person. He died three days after reached at BC. Later his friends and girlfriend came Nepal and we when BC and we made his memorial at Gorak Shep.
2003 autumn, I went to climb Cho-Oyu with Spanish team. This time we back from Camp- II, because of windy weather. After waiting couple of week also weather did not improved so we returned back to Kathmandu.
This year 2003 I couldn't get any high summit due weather and clients condition and situation of the expedition team members.
2004 Spring I lead Everest from North side Tibet with big Italy 50th Mt.K2 Golden jubilee expedition team for Everest . They have very big team for K2 after Everest. Some members are going to K2. The expedition Everest was many different research members in the team. So, we had big preparation Kathmandu. Then we drive to kadari Nepal Tibet border with some members and 19 Nepal staff included Sherpa climber and cook staff. Then Zangmu, Nyalam, Thingri to CBC by road. Some members join CBC from Lhasa. We setup big camp side at CBC. We have big medical others more then 30/40 tents until return back from ABC. We have two cook team for CBC and ABC. After few days rest, setup camp and prepared Yak Porter to ABC. We trek two days to there. We made one big Tent at Indome. In case emergency during the expedition. Because, we have big large group. Then we setup ABC 6600 miter top side. Our team are researching many different way like rock, ice snow, altitude etc. we have four Tibetan High Altitude supporter and one women Tibetan member. we made puja ( ceremony ) pray at ABC then we start climb up North Col,C-II and deposit at last camp ( C-III ). Same clients acclimatize backing forth few time NC,C-II and touch Las camp. Then we have few day rest for summit weather window. We got weather report but, very short period summit window. Then we left for summit but, due to strong wind we have to return from first steep. Then we return ABC and waiting weather. Then finally we got good weather report. Our first Tibetan team summit one day early summit with one women, two Tibetan High Altitude supporter. Then second day we are Seven team members included four Sherpa climbers summit Top of The Mt. Everest 8848miter high mountain in the World on May 24 2004 at 10:00am. We spend about 2 1/2 hours on the Top. Pray for Peach in World. We have to put setalite and Altitude Measurement research by Robert Massine ten miter from the top four direction North/South/East/West. Then we made many Picture and It was really great moment and my big succeeded day for my life first time successful summit Top of the World highest peak. I was three time before 2004 expedition to Everest. But, not get summit.
So, then we descended down to last camp and C-II and North Col. I came ABC same day and some of team stopped NC and came down next day. The two day after Yak Came ABC and we trek down CBC and two days after close and all camp and back to Kathmandu by road same way. This expedition gave me many different knowledge.
My Dream Lead To 14th Highest Peaks
Included Everest seven successful 8000meter peaks inspired me to do more and best further. From World highest peak success made me to try to climb 14 highest Peaks in World. But,for me it’s very impossible dream, because though my family background is not strong enough it was very difficult to get climbing team and financially support for Nepali People. I try couple time with Nepal Government of Tourism and some of related Organization in Nepal. Everybody said they will help and support but, last moment they said sorry always. Then I continue lead expedition different Mountain and season as a Guide. I don't have second option to climb my self individually. That why some of mountain I repeat twice and three times. If I get an opportunity, and sponsor to climb I want to do soon. But, still my dream is continue.
following the same year 2004 autumn season I went to climb again Cho-Oyu with Spanish team. As unseal we prepare all necessary equipment Kathmandu and drive to Kodari Border check in Zangmu. Then Nyalam, Thingri CBC. 2 days rest and prepared for Yak to go ABC. We have to Trek two day to reached ABC. There was already some expedition team. we setup camp made Puja ( Ceremony ) pray to Mountain God and climb To C-I set tent deposit gear return to ABC. We did few time for acclimatization for clients and carry gear to C-II. From Deposit camp to C-I Cho-Oyu is more rocky trail and climb up.
We return ABC for summit rest and good weather window. Finally we got good weather window report. We left for summit with clients and two Climbing sherpa include my self C-I,II and C-III last camp after few hours rest we prepared some hot drink, food and hot water for bottle during summit day. Weather was very good no the way summit we are keep continue climbing to reach summit. Finally we are reached Top of the Cho-Oyu 8201miter high peak on September 25th- 2004 around 10:30 AM. We pray Peace in World with many pictures. You can enjoy beautiful panorama views. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse are just front of you and you can enjoy view of Makalu, Baruntse, Chamlang many more and you can see Gokyo right below you and Khumbu valley view are very beautiful. Then we return down to last camp and ABC. Our expedition is successfully over.
2005 Spring Dhaulagiri-I with South Korean team. We prepare all climbing gear, food and others necessary equipment for expedition in Kathmandu. Then team Members arrived KTM and we drive by road to Pokhara and flew big Rasian helicopter to Marpha. One member and two of us Sherpa flew to Daulagiri-I bass camp with equipment. There was snow at BC and finally we found ground and offload gear. Then Helicopter return for second trip. Rest of our team with Nepali staff trek from Marpha to Thapa pass and Hingku valley BC. They took 5-6 days to get BC. Until they arriving BC we three setup camp. There was no others team reach before us. After few days week later one of commercial International expedition came BC. After Pray Puja( Lama Ceremony ) we start to climb up to fix rope and open route. Route go through the below ice fall left side steep climb up and by below rocky side. This part always come small Avalanche and damage or cut rope. We have to little care full this part and watch up and cross fast and continue need to go left Conor. Once we cross this part then come big width flat and deposit camp is below the C-I climb up part. But, this big flat section is quite danger by big huge Avalanche come from all the way below rocky part slop of summit and Big big Ice Sarac. We had been 2-3 time huge Avalanche this part but, luckily nothing haven't with our team. The flat part is danger by hidden Kharapass. After deposit camp We have to fix 2-3 hundred miter rope and continue go route up and turn slop to the camp-II . Camp -II is safe and nice beautiful view place. From C-II we have to climb by ridge and deck and need to cut snow ice for tent ground. Anyway, we need to make flat tent side. Then route go up by ridge with mix rocky trail to C-III last camp. This part we have to fix rope. Then we deposit equipment there and return to BC for summit rest. Then we left for summit attempt with seven people included three member and four climbing sherpa. One of our Sherpa climber summit Daulagiri-I 5-6 times before. His name is Dawa Sherpa from Makalu and people know him nickname Daupagiri Dawa. Mostly he lead Daulagiri expedition. Our first attempt was an unsuccessful because of the weather but the second attempt lead us to the summit on May 04th 2005 Dhaulagiri-I 8091miter high peak With one Korean and three Sherpas reached on the Top. It was very long time to reach summit, it was worthy by deep snow. We took summit picture with banner, National flag and put pray flag on the top also we got some panorama view picture. Then we descend to last camp and continue two days down to BC. This season we are the only one group to reached summit. The other team fail summit. From BC this time we are four climbing Sherpa staff walk to Marpha one day . We left BC around 6:00 am and reached Marpha night 1-2 o'clock . It's so long day coming in snow. When we get Batase Danda it was very windy and very cold icy trail down. After the Thapa pass some place are quite danger steep and walk in deep snow was scary. If anything happen there is no way to surviving. However we got Marpha deftly and we stopped one of local house which Dawa Know well. They have good friendship long time. Then we trek to Jomsom and flew to Pokhara and our team flew by Helicopter from BC to PKR. From PKR we came together Kathamndu. Our expedition is over with successful and safely.
This summit more inspirited me to continue my dream to success all 14 peaks it's my eight of 8000miter high peaks and 12th times of summit 8000m peaks.
Continue 2005 Autumn again climbed Mt. Himlung with Swiss team. We had very good time during Drive from Kathmandu to Besi Sahar and trek to same route of Annapurna Circuit most popular trekking route west Nepal to Kodo and trek to very remote area Nar Phu Valley by jungle. It's deferent country like Tibet plateaus. Anyway, we reached Phu Goun. It's like almost Upper Dolpo/ Upper Manaslu people are and daily living life style. Young generation are speak Nepali but, old and senior people are speak only local language. The place is very beautiful and all farmer and most of have Yak, some cow and horse. We trek two days from Phu Village to BC. It's nice beautiful place. We had puja at BC then climbing begin camp-I and C-II when we reached -II weather was change snow falling. Looks weather will getting bag. Then we decide to go back BC and descend down. On the way heavy snowing and our trails is cover and we have to open all the way back to BC. Finally we reached camp. Continue snowing none stop more then 36 hours. Our tent and most of equipment is totally snow cover. Then we try to collect all the tent and other equipment keep one place in dinning tent and next early morning we return down to Phu village but, it's very deep snow very difficult and danger to open trail but, we have no second option. However we open trail and I the way we rescue many Yaks domestics Animal. They are trap by deep snow. Then we reached Yak Kharka there was two Yak house with local people. We had some hot drink. We had only few dry food for in case emergency. So, finally we reach at 1:30 midnight in Phu village. Then we weak up local house people we slept two house because they have not enough room . when we got there I informed to Kathmandu we all safe and back to Phu. Next morning our trekking agency send helicopter rescue for us. We flew back to Kathmandu and our staff stay there few more day to get equipment from BC. Then week after I when to Phu by helicopter to pick up my staff and equipment. This season many many Nepalese and France climbers killed by Avalanche at Khang Karu peak same region and many more others place.
2006 on 11th May at 12:30pm We started our attempt summit from North Camp 3 and We reached to Summit at 11 o'clock am. We stayed there for One and half hours to pray for PEACE IN THE WORLD and then we started for Travers
( Cross ) to South-Side. As there wasn't an opened route from the South Col we managed to open the route by ourself from there and summit to South Col. As climate wasn't so good it took some time from way to down.
Also it was a night when we came down to below Balcony. We had only one head light eventhough we managed to reached South Col at night. As we don't have any tent we continued to go down and reached to Camp-3 at 2 o'clock AM midnight. then we slept with another team's tent. Finally on next morning we started at 9 AM and reached at Camp-2. We descend down very slowly because, my friends got snow blind problems and was tired during that day therefore we decided to stay there on that day. Finally we came back to Base Camp and stayed at Gorakshep and then we begin on next day from Gorakshep to Lobuche by walk. On same day we took a helicopter from Lobuche to Kathmandu.
As we came back by facing with an many difficulties,dangers it makes me remind of those moments when i reached at Base Camp and feel happy myself as returned safely.
We are proud to say that we came from South Col where the route wasn't opened and make a open route by ourselves from the Summit. We are glad to say that this is a totally an new record made by me ( Serap Jangbu Sherpa) and my friend Mr. Park Young Seok from South Korea.
We met our many friends ( nepali & foreigneer) who welcome us at Base Camp. We are glad to see all friends and would like to thank for those wonderful moments to all my Sherpa and Foreigneer Friends.
After successful Travers Mt. Everest few weeks prepared I flew to Pakistan to climb Gesherbrum -I and II. I join with expedition team at Islamabad. Then we drive by road to Skardu met our local staff and finale shopping then drive to Askole and Trek to Zola, Payu, vie Baldoro glacial, Concordia and Bass camp. After ceremony puja BC we climb up to C-I,II, And last camp III. We start summit push around 1:30 am And reached summit at 9:15 am July 07-2006 top of Gesherbrum -II. We are nine people different expedition team reached together same day. We made some picture and descend down last camp. Pack camp and continue C-II,I and return to BC. After we try G-I alpine style two person but, due to bad weather we have to return. Then we was waiting long time for some team come to climb G-I but, when there was team going summit I got sick and I have to cancel G-I and my friend summit. Then we back to Islamabad and they flew Korean and I return Kathmandu.
Few weeks rest and prepared again ready to go Mt. Manaslu 8167meter with Japanese team. As usual prepared equipment and necessary material Kathmandu. We flew by helicopter to Sama Goun ( village ) Sama village is the last and biggest village way to Manaslu BC. We had 2-3 days for preparing Porter to carry load bc. It take one day trek to bc. The trail goes small jungles and quite steep climb up to reached. BC is very nice hill top camp side with beautiful mountain and valley view. Setup camp ceremony puja by local Lama from Sama Goun. Then expedition start climb C-I,II return BC for rest and weather window for summit push. We got good weather window report and climb up C-I,II, and C-III last camp. When we reached last camp weather was quite windy but, we hard to setup Tent and hot drink food. The around 12 midnight we ready to go summit attempt and weather is good. We are five Sherpa climbers and three Japanese ages team members. So, on the way we open route turn by turn and last moment me and one of Sherpa friend when first to fixed rope at necessary. We fixed rope to Top. Then we reached Top of Mt.Manaslu 8167 meter high on October 1st 2006 at 9:30. There is no big space on the top. We took picture one by one. Then return last camp and descend to C-II,I. Some sherpa and members stopped C-I and I came down BC. Next day all return BC. Two days later we back Sama goun, waiting for Helicopter finally flew back Kathmandu week later. So, our expedition is successfully safely over and I want to special thanks to Rowling trekking family who gave me opportunity to join with expedition and all the expedition teams family support during the expedition.
Mt.Manaslu is my 3rd successful summit a year. My special thank to all the trekking Agency and expedition crew support and help to make all the successful summit.
2007 spring I return back to Everest from Nepal with Korean expedition team Mr. Park. Our expedition was open new South West face. As usual we prepared all necessary equipment at Kathmandu. Then we cargo most of equipment from Jiri to Syangbuche and team members and Nepali staff flew Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Namche bazar, Tengbuche, EBC with Yaks Porter. Then we setup BC ceremony Puja and climbing start C-I,II setup all necessary equipment climbing route fixing gear at camp -II. From camp two we have to climb up south west face stretch up. We open route turn by turn but, it's really steep and very danger by rock falling. We have to watch rock falling. However, I been above 7000meter and then return BC due to hit rock at my shoulder and came Kathmandu for treatment. two of my good friends Korean climbers killed by Avalanche at Above 7300meter. Then expedition is over. This incident made big sock and sad this year and I stopped climber for the year.
Year later I lead expedition team from Denmark again Everest south side Nepal. As usual prepared Kathmandu flew to Lukla trek to Namche, EBC with Yak Porter and Nepali staff only. We setup BC before team member arrived. We have only two clients. They came Lobuche by Helicopter. I came with some staff to pick up them Lobuche. Then few days rest BC and start climb up C-I, II and We return BC. This year Nepal government stop for climb up to
Camp-II until May 10 due to Chinese Olympus game. Then out clients are flew back Kathmandu for climb one of Seven Summit peak in Europe. Because, one of my clients Henrik Krishtian is climbing to make fastest world records of Seven summit. Then they return with successfully summit. Now Everest is his sixth peak of seven summit. So, the south side is open climb up to camp two after Chinese team summit Everest May 10th from north side. Then we all ready to go setup last camp south col. Finally we got good weather window report. We lest for summit push. We are two members and four sherpa climbers included my self. We start from last camp south col around 10:30 pm. That night was many climbers to attempt summit. We reached Top of the world highest peak on May 25th 2008. We all six climbers successfully summit and many climbers from others expedition team. Then we descend south col, camp two and next day return to BC. Then two of members and my self flew Kathmandu from Lobuche and staff trek to Lukla with equipment gear and flew to Kathmandu. It was very nice team work expedition.
This was my third times successful summit Everest and first time successful summit from south side of Nepal and 16th times successful summit 8000meter mountain.
In fall season I lead some of trekking team with climber trekking peak above 6500meter and organized trekking, peak.
Then 2009 prepared for my last 8000meter peaks in Nepal. I join with India Army team of HMI team granites by Asian Trekking. All team members and Nepali staff left from Kathmandu to BC and few weeks later flew Tumlingtar with our expedition Liaison officer from Government and same day we trek to Khandbari. Here we had interaction program with district officer and other peoples. Next morning I had interview with Khandbari FM. Then we start trek and the district officer family drop us Kuwapani by their jeep. Then continue our trekking journey. Tashi goun, khongma la pass, yengle Kharka, lower BC Hillary BC. Next day main bass camp with two of my personal Porter. Then joined with team. Rest and climb camp-I setup my tent. Then climb and fixed makalu La route and reach camp -II. Then we return BC. Rest for summit and we left for summit but, when we reached Makalu La camp -II weather was change very strong windy. We wait 48 hours at there to get better weather but, it's getting worse and more string windy. Then we decide return BC. So, we were 11th climbers descend. On the way some of climbers return and some stopped camp-I and some climbers and my self return BC. Then we came down Hillary BC for rest 2-3 days. Then return BC and continue climb up for summit push. We got good windows weather report this time. We left camp-II around 11:30 pm with four members and six Sherpa climbers. French culler part is quite rocky route then we reached on top of Mt. Makalu 8463 meter 4th highest peak in world at 9:40 am May 19th 2009. Then we descend C-II,I and I came same day BC and others members and Sherpa climbers team stopped Camp -I. That day I took 8hours 40 minute to get BC from summit and one the way I closed all my camp And carry all my staffs down to BC . Next day all team return BC and then we closed BC back to Hillary camp. weather is change heavy snow failed.
Then finally back Kathmandu by helicopter.
My last eight of 8000meter peaks is successfully done and became first Nepali to completed all eight of 8000meter peaks in Nepal and summit 11th peaks of 14th highest peaks in World with 17th times summit 8000meter peaks.
After successful summit Makalu expedition. I continue two weeks flew to Pakistan to climb my one of remaining three peak of 14th highest peak in the World. This time I join with international commercial expedition team and all my expenses was support by Phillipe Gatte from Fance. Some of Sherpa climbers friends from Nepal flew to Islamabad to join with team members. Then we drive by road to Skardu us usual. We had final shopping and met all local staffs there and drive to Askole. Trek to Jola,Payu, urdukash, Concordia and BC with Porter and gear. Prepared and setup camp BC ceremony Puja and then climb beginning camp-I setup tent deposit and return BC. This time all team going first climb Gesherbrum -II. There was no team ready to go Gesherbrum -I. I climb couple time with team C-I and wait there some time and some time rest BC. I don't have Permit for climb G-II. But my partner Phillipe is climbing first G-II and going G-I that our plan. Due to bad weather it took quite long time waiting BC and finally there was one team individual ready for G-I and we climbed together and fixed rope some place and reached Camp-III let camp. But, due to bad windy weather we have to give up and back BC. Then we return down to BC. During the my climbing this season individual took lots of risk many time failed kharapass. Then again one more time try summit push but, same weather conditions and have to return from last BC. Still the weather is not good and I decide to give off this season and will back next time. So, one of our teams member gorden and my self return Islamabad and our rest of teams still waiting for weather and try to summit push G-I. Then I return Kathmandu and later the expedition team also return without success due to the weather.
2010 organized trekking, trekking peak & climb Trekking peaks only no high mountain this year.
2011 climb Sishapangma with some of friends from Switzerland sky team. As usual prepared Kathmandu necessary gear equipment. Drive to Kodari border and CTMA Guide and Liaison officer pick up at Immegration in border at Kodari and drive to Zangmu. Shopping necessary fresh food. Next day drive Nyalam. Here expedition team take one day rest for acclimatization and go day hike to Nyalam Ri. Here also we can buy fresh food. Then drive to CBC by thangla pass. At CBC two days rest and prepared Yak load to go ABC. It take one day to reach ABC. We are the first team to reach there. Setup camp ceremony puja. Climbing begin to deposit camp and the camp -I here is little danger by Kharapass. First day we couldn't reach C-I and we descend down deposit camp and next day climb up to C-I setup tent and over night there weather is good. We fixed some place rope and return to ABC. Few days rest and waiting weather report.so , some more team came ABC but, now one ready for summit attempt. Then we left for summit push. We reach above 7850meter and my clients told us to return back. They said we are already summit this high. We don't need to go higher if you guys want to go top continue go we will descend slowly down. Then we all descend down to together and return back to C-I and next day closed all camp and Tibetan Kitchen staff and some of friends came to pick up deposit camp
And back all together abc. Then yak came up and trek down CBC same day drive to Nyalam, Zangmu. Then pass border and we had very good natural hot spring steam bath and shower Tato Pani and back to Kathmandu. All of team are very happy even not summit. This expedition we had great time and many nice and happy memorable with all teams.
changes of my life with social work:.
Running school charity to support Nepal School and the School kids student every winter January since 2008 working this project with Korean Teacher Union Chung-Num, Lead by Mr. Lee Se Jung. Come Every year teacher and some students. I Organized and lead in Nepal. we go directly to the school teach them and distributing necessary all daily use stationary item and clothing for kids. We support and help every year two Primary School. One out of Kathmandu city and one country side Trekking route in Nepal.
Also, we organize Trekking and Expedition and many more. When, where ever you want!